San Miguel Parochial Albergue in Estella
Estella is a town with a population of around 15,000 people, situated between Puenta la Reina and Los Arcos and about 120km from St Jean-Pied-de-Port. It is a pleasant historical town with many restaurants, banks and supermarkets and is on the main ALSA bus route from Madrid to Pamplona. Estella has five albergues including the Parochial.
Estella is a town with a population of around 15,000 people, situated between Puenta la Reina and Los Arcos and about 120km from St Jean-Pied-de-Port. It is a pleasant historical town with many restaurants, banks and supermarkets and is on the main ALSA bus route from Madrid to Pamplona. Estella has five albergues including the Parochial.
Application to be a hospitalero:
I completed my training in Sydney during January 2015 and, three weeks later, I received an email from Spain telling me I would be working at the San Miguel albergue in Estella for the first half of October.
I completed my training in Sydney during January 2015 and, three weeks later, I received an email from Spain telling me I would be working at the San Miguel albergue in Estella for the first half of October.
Exterior of albergue
The Albergue:
The albergue is about five minutes walk uphill from the Camino and is situated on the ground floor of a three level residential building. It is physically small though with a large outside area suitable for eating and with laundry drying lines. It contains 32 bunk beds, 14 in one room and 18 in another together with two bathrooms, a very small kitchen, a small dining/relaxation/reception area and a very small hospitaleros' room.
The albergue is donativo and provides accommodation and a substantial breakfast of muesli, cornflakes, yogurt, toast with a variety of jams and tea, coffee and cola-cao. Dinner is not normally provided. By casual observation, donations would average about 10€. The safe would be emptied two or three times a week by an official from the church. We had a float of money to purchase shopping and this was topped up to about 100€ on each visit. This was more than enough to last us three days. We always had receipts and a summary to account for what we had spent.
The albergue is about five minutes walk uphill from the Camino and is situated on the ground floor of a three level residential building. It is physically small though with a large outside area suitable for eating and with laundry drying lines. It contains 32 bunk beds, 14 in one room and 18 in another together with two bathrooms, a very small kitchen, a small dining/relaxation/reception area and a very small hospitaleros' room.
The albergue is donativo and provides accommodation and a substantial breakfast of muesli, cornflakes, yogurt, toast with a variety of jams and tea, coffee and cola-cao. Dinner is not normally provided. By casual observation, donations would average about 10€. The safe would be emptied two or three times a week by an official from the church. We had a float of money to purchase shopping and this was topped up to about 100€ on each visit. This was more than enough to last us three days. We always had receipts and a summary to account for what we had spent.
Our supervisor was nominally the parish priest and he paid us three visits during the two weeks I was at the albergue. I think that they were only courtesy visits as the albergue operated very smoothly.
We did not accept reservations and beds were available on a first arrival basis, including cyclists and even a skate-board rider. Surprisingly for the time of the year, we averaged 78% occupancy and several nights we were completely full and had to turn pilgrims away. We never put mattresses on the floor to create more beds.
We had a comments book in which there would be some comments every day. All were positive which was good and the most common entries were that the breakfast was great and the albergue was very friendly.
We did not accept reservations and beds were available on a first arrival basis, including cyclists and even a skate-board rider. Surprisingly for the time of the year, we averaged 78% occupancy and several nights we were completely full and had to turn pilgrims away. We never put mattresses on the floor to create more beds.
We had a comments book in which there would be some comments every day. All were positive which was good and the most common entries were that the breakfast was great and the albergue was very friendly.
Handover:
The two departing hospitaleros were Serge, a Frenchman who spoke excellent English and Spanish and the other was Jose, a Spaniard with limited English who was staying in a hotel in the town with his girlfriend rather than in the albergue. Serge loved food and was a wonderful cook and, in the two days we overlapped, he cooked wonderful meals.
Under these two hospitaleros, the albergue opened at 2:00 pm which gave Serge time to cook his great meals. Serge explained that, in his view, women preferred separate dormitories for men and women so the 14 bed room was for women and the other for men (previously there were mixed dormitories) with a bathroom each. Also there had been a communal evening meal but this was no longer in operation, partly because the evenings were getting too cold to sit outside and also many peregrinos preferred to go into town to a restaurant. I like communal meals but to organise the pilgrims was very hard work for the hospitaleros.
The two departing hospitaleros were Serge, a Frenchman who spoke excellent English and Spanish and the other was Jose, a Spaniard with limited English who was staying in a hotel in the town with his girlfriend rather than in the albergue. Serge loved food and was a wonderful cook and, in the two days we overlapped, he cooked wonderful meals.
Under these two hospitaleros, the albergue opened at 2:00 pm which gave Serge time to cook his great meals. Serge explained that, in his view, women preferred separate dormitories for men and women so the 14 bed room was for women and the other for men (previously there were mixed dormitories) with a bathroom each. Also there had been a communal evening meal but this was no longer in operation, partly because the evenings were getting too cold to sit outside and also many peregrinos preferred to go into town to a restaurant. I like communal meals but to organise the pilgrims was very hard work for the hospitaleros.
One of the dormitories
Work:
The day after my arrival, my new colleague arrived and Serge and Jose went home. My fellow hospitalero, Pedro, was Spanish. He spoke about five words of English and none in other languages. Prior to leaving for Spain, I had taken Spanish lessons but it was difficult for me to have a long conversation or discussion; nevertheless we worked together well enough, although not completely harmoniously.
Basically our work was to be out of bed by 5:45am to prepare breakfast which was available from 6:00am to 8:00am. Cleaning took about one and a half hours with all the plastic mattress covers and pillow cases being wiped with disinfectant, the floors swept and mopped with disinfectant, the toilets and kitchen thoroughly cleaned, all eleven waste baskets emptied and the outside area tidied.
The next job would be shopping, when we would buy any new cleaning materials, toilet paper, laundry powder (a washing machine was available) and breakfast items. We only used one supermarket as it gave us a discount. Shopping and cleaning were complete by about 11:30am. On our first day, I was expecting to have time to relax but Pedro insisted we open immediately. I felt rather beholden to him as he was an experienced hospitalero and this was my first time.
When pilgrims arrived, I would greet them in Spanish just outside the entry door and politely request them to take off their boots and put them in the boot cupboard. I then asked their nationality and, if Spanish, would direct them straight to Pedro and, if non-Spanish, would tell them in English of the times of lights out (10:00pm), breakfast (6:00am-8:00am), morning closing (8:00am) and mass times at "our" church, San Miguel.
It is important for pilgrims to know who is in charge of running the albergue. As I was walking before and after my stay in Estella, I wore pilgrim clothing and many of the pilgrims initially thought I was one of "them". I wore an identification badge with my name and embroidered insignia showing that I was a volunteer hospitalero from Australia. Many were very interested that I had come all the way from Australia to work voluntarily and I was keen to tell them about the many volunteers, mostly Spanish, who helped them on their way - the painters of the yellow arrows, planners, coordinators, trash removalists and so on.
At about 9:45pm, we would lay the tables ready for breakfast and encourage anyone still awake to go to bed. My last job for the day would be to make sure there was plenty of toilet paper in each bathroom. We would be in bed by 10:15pm.
We did not experience any problems with the peregrinos. Quite the contrary as I found that they were all wonderful, albeit one or two who were a little strange. The Spanish and Italians were at times exuberant and noisy but that is part of their national characteristic and on only one occasion did we have to request them to be quiet, which they did immediately. One man, part of a Spanish group, even supplied and cooked scrambled eggs for 30 people one morning.
I did not find the labour of cleaning and shopping especially tiring - it was only three and a half hours of hard work - but it was repetitious and boring and we became very efficient and fast. The rest of the day was mainly spent greeting pilgrims, registering them, explaining the few rules, helping them with any problems they might have and having lots of friendly conversations.
The day after my arrival, my new colleague arrived and Serge and Jose went home. My fellow hospitalero, Pedro, was Spanish. He spoke about five words of English and none in other languages. Prior to leaving for Spain, I had taken Spanish lessons but it was difficult for me to have a long conversation or discussion; nevertheless we worked together well enough, although not completely harmoniously.
Basically our work was to be out of bed by 5:45am to prepare breakfast which was available from 6:00am to 8:00am. Cleaning took about one and a half hours with all the plastic mattress covers and pillow cases being wiped with disinfectant, the floors swept and mopped with disinfectant, the toilets and kitchen thoroughly cleaned, all eleven waste baskets emptied and the outside area tidied.
The next job would be shopping, when we would buy any new cleaning materials, toilet paper, laundry powder (a washing machine was available) and breakfast items. We only used one supermarket as it gave us a discount. Shopping and cleaning were complete by about 11:30am. On our first day, I was expecting to have time to relax but Pedro insisted we open immediately. I felt rather beholden to him as he was an experienced hospitalero and this was my first time.
When pilgrims arrived, I would greet them in Spanish just outside the entry door and politely request them to take off their boots and put them in the boot cupboard. I then asked their nationality and, if Spanish, would direct them straight to Pedro and, if non-Spanish, would tell them in English of the times of lights out (10:00pm), breakfast (6:00am-8:00am), morning closing (8:00am) and mass times at "our" church, San Miguel.
It is important for pilgrims to know who is in charge of running the albergue. As I was walking before and after my stay in Estella, I wore pilgrim clothing and many of the pilgrims initially thought I was one of "them". I wore an identification badge with my name and embroidered insignia showing that I was a volunteer hospitalero from Australia. Many were very interested that I had come all the way from Australia to work voluntarily and I was keen to tell them about the many volunteers, mostly Spanish, who helped them on their way - the painters of the yellow arrows, planners, coordinators, trash removalists and so on.
At about 9:45pm, we would lay the tables ready for breakfast and encourage anyone still awake to go to bed. My last job for the day would be to make sure there was plenty of toilet paper in each bathroom. We would be in bed by 10:15pm.
We did not experience any problems with the peregrinos. Quite the contrary as I found that they were all wonderful, albeit one or two who were a little strange. The Spanish and Italians were at times exuberant and noisy but that is part of their national characteristic and on only one occasion did we have to request them to be quiet, which they did immediately. One man, part of a Spanish group, even supplied and cooked scrambled eggs for 30 people one morning.
I did not find the labour of cleaning and shopping especially tiring - it was only three and a half hours of hard work - but it was repetitious and boring and we became very efficient and fast. The rest of the day was mainly spent greeting pilgrims, registering them, explaining the few rules, helping them with any problems they might have and having lots of friendly conversations.
Working with another hospitalero:
Normally you will have no idea with whom you will be working and, talking to other hospitaleros, this is often the biggest problem. We all have our distinct personalities and it is important that we work together harmoniously otherwise it is the pilgrims who are the innocent recipients of a dysfunctional albergue.
There was no rule book to guide us and each roster of hospitaleros organised the way the albergue ran during the time they stayed. Pedro initially would not accept backpacks that were forwarded by Jacotrans or any other forwarding company for whatever reason. I later found that the baggage company would leave them at the Municipal Albergue. After the first week, Pedro agreed that we accept forwarded baggage. Also we agreed that Pedro would go out for about 30 minutes in the morning after we had finished our work and I would take an hour off in the evening during which time I would sit in the Plaza Mayor and have a quiet coffee or glass of wine.
Normally you will have no idea with whom you will be working and, talking to other hospitaleros, this is often the biggest problem. We all have our distinct personalities and it is important that we work together harmoniously otherwise it is the pilgrims who are the innocent recipients of a dysfunctional albergue.
There was no rule book to guide us and each roster of hospitaleros organised the way the albergue ran during the time they stayed. Pedro initially would not accept backpacks that were forwarded by Jacotrans or any other forwarding company for whatever reason. I later found that the baggage company would leave them at the Municipal Albergue. After the first week, Pedro agreed that we accept forwarded baggage. Also we agreed that Pedro would go out for about 30 minutes in the morning after we had finished our work and I would take an hour off in the evening during which time I would sit in the Plaza Mayor and have a quiet coffee or glass of wine.
I found that the difficulty of cooking a meal for myself was a big problem as the kitchen was very small and pilgrims wanted to use it as well. Usually I had a salad about midday and, in the evening, some bread with cheese, salami, etc and a glass of wine. I have no idea of Pedro's eating habits as the only time I saw him eat was breakfast when he would have some toast. As soon as we opened, he would sit at the reception desk for the next nine hours or so, sign people in and read on his Kindle. During all my time at the albergue, I did not sign in any peregrinos as he occupied the desk.
All this may give the impression that I did not enjoy my time as a hospitalero. I hope not as it was certainly an experience that gave me an insight into the people who work, often voluntarily, to help peregrinos along the way. I can understand why hospitaleros can occasionally be irritable or even rude as it is difficult to give peregrinos the attention some of them think they are entitled to and to give a smiling welcome for up to nine hours a day.
All this may give the impression that I did not enjoy my time as a hospitalero. I hope not as it was certainly an experience that gave me an insight into the people who work, often voluntarily, to help peregrinos along the way. I can understand why hospitaleros can occasionally be irritable or even rude as it is difficult to give peregrinos the attention some of them think they are entitled to and to give a smiling welcome for up to nine hours a day.
San Miguel
Spare time:
Aside from the break I took to go to the Plaza Mayor in the evenings, I had very little spare time. A few times I went to the local patisserie to buy some pastry or cake which I would take back to the albergue to share with Pedro. I regretted not having the time to explore the town's historical buildings and back streets. I went to Mass in the church of San Miguel (to which the albergue is affiliated) only once and that was on my first night before starting my official duties. Maybe I was too conscientious but Pedro tended to panic when I was not around to help English speakers.
After:
Our hospitalero replacements arrived a day early and Pedro and myself were as excited as schoolboys at the end of term. As Pedro departed, he gave me a big hug which surprised me and he was on his way to his home in Valencia only two hours after the arrival of the new hospitaleros. I left the next morning to return by bus to Castrojeriz to continue my Camino.
Writing this after my return to Australia, I realise I enjoyed my time as a hospitalero and would happily volunteer again. Whilst walking as a pilgrim, I asked a hospitalero whether he has been a hospitalero many times and he told me that he was always very happy when he finished a "tour of duty" and swore he would never do it again but, after two years, he would be back as a hospitalero. Next time I volunteer, I will be more selective and try to work with a volunteer that I already know.
Finally:
The most important lessons I have learnt from this hospitalero experience are that one must be tolerant, adaptable, firm when necessary, eat well, set aside some personal time every day and to share equally the work with the other hospitalero.
Working as a hospitalero is another type of Camino experience and most rewarding.
David, March 2016
Our hospitalero replacements arrived a day early and Pedro and myself were as excited as schoolboys at the end of term. As Pedro departed, he gave me a big hug which surprised me and he was on his way to his home in Valencia only two hours after the arrival of the new hospitaleros. I left the next morning to return by bus to Castrojeriz to continue my Camino.
Writing this after my return to Australia, I realise I enjoyed my time as a hospitalero and would happily volunteer again. Whilst walking as a pilgrim, I asked a hospitalero whether he has been a hospitalero many times and he told me that he was always very happy when he finished a "tour of duty" and swore he would never do it again but, after two years, he would be back as a hospitalero. Next time I volunteer, I will be more selective and try to work with a volunteer that I already know.
Finally:
The most important lessons I have learnt from this hospitalero experience are that one must be tolerant, adaptable, firm when necessary, eat well, set aside some personal time every day and to share equally the work with the other hospitalero.
Working as a hospitalero is another type of Camino experience and most rewarding.
David, March 2016